Monday, January 24, 2011

Across the Harbour Bridge to Beach Haven



Take a tiki tour one day, across Auckland's Harbour Bridge (a landmark in the City of Sails) to Beach Haven on the North Shore.

Beach Haven is not a destination for the masses.  Most travellers traversing the bridge northwards completely bypass the turnoff that takes you, via Onewa Road, to Birkenhead and on to Beach Haven, fondly referred to by our family as 'The Haven'.

You can drive straight up Onewa Road to Birkenhead or if you fancy a tiki tour on your way to the The Haven there are a number of little bays you can visit that offer views of the Harbour Bridge and Auckland City from slightly different angles and they aren't far off the main drag. 

To tiki tour, turn left into Queen St off Onewa Road and take a leisurely drive toward Northcote Point.  If you're thirsty stop off at the Northcote Pub.  At the end of the road is what used to be the Fishermens Wharf restaurant.  You get some awesome photo's of the bridge off the wharf.  If you fancy seeing what the underside of the  Harbour Bridge is like, there's a short footpath to take you there. 

Harbour Bridge from Northcote Point
Heading back along Queen St you'll find Rodney Road on your left.  Follow it down the Council Terrace hill to Little Shoal Bay.  Plenty of room here for the kids to run around and there's a playground to keep them entertained as well.  You can swim if you're in the mood, or just dip your toes in the water with the bridge in the background.

Little Shoal Bay on the Beach Haven Tiki Tour
Once you've taken all happy snaps you want, jump back in the car and head up the hill on the other side of the bay, or if you fancy a bit of exercise you can walk up the hill.  I only mention this because I drove passed a lady doing it....I kept driving. 

If you turn left at the top and follow Hinemoa St to the end, you'll come to the Birkenhead Wharf.  There's a nice park and if you've timed it right you can watch one of Fullers Ferry's docking.  The Northcote Birkenhead Yacht Club is housed here, so you migght spot a few learner sailors and the odd veteran heading out into the waters. 

Birkenhead Wharf Park
Drive back up Hinemoa St and you'll pass through Highbury with its little collection of boutique type shops.  I spied a coffee shop and it has been filed in the 'coffee shops to try' part of my brain.

A little further on you'll come to Birkenhead, the main shopping center for the area.  There are plenty of places here to eat and have coffee.  My nieces and I tried the Word of Mouth coffee shop.  They gave the iced chocolate a thumbs up.


Nice stop for a quick bite
If you want to get a closer look at the Chelsea Sugar Refinery (why?... I dunno!) you can find this down Colonial Drive at the other end of Mokoia Road.  There's lovely park-like lawns so you can get a picture of you and your car with the pink factory backdrop, if you're that way inclined. 

Getting back on the track to Beach Haven from Birkenhead shopping center is easy - go left at the lights.  When you reach the round about at Verrans Corner, stay left.  This takes you onto Rangatira Road which historically separated the 'good' side of The Haven from the 'bad'. 

Here's a bit history...Beach Haven is a seaside suburb and the side nearest the sea was for the more well off.  Houses on the other side of the road were largely state homes and a few of the occupants were fairly well known to the local constabulary.  I have no idea if the criminal element is still holed up on 'that' side of the road these days, I've been away for thirteen years, but I do know the coastal homes are still pricey.

The drive takes you past Island Bay Road which offers a swimming and picnic spot tucked away at the bottom with a wharf hidden behind a little hill where you'll often find people fishing.  The place is quite popular with local boaties as a launching point and is great for safe swimming. 

Continue along Rangatira Road and you will eventually wind up at the Beach Haven shops and a T-intersection with a roundabout.  Turning left will lead you to Beach Haven wharf.  We used to buy fish 'n chips at the local takeway and head down to the wharf to eat while the kids ran around at the beach. 

A local man, Frank Larkin, spent years building this beach.  I'm glad to report that it's still a nice spot.  In fact the council has done a bit of work there developing Hilders Park.  There are sufficient picnic tables and viewing points to look out over the water towards Whenuapai and the wharf still has that aged rickety feel, just like old wharves should - though it's perfectly safe and kids were still jumping off the end.

Beach Haven Wharf

There is no playground for young ones at Beach Haven wharf, so if you're after that it might be best to head to Shepherds Park, which is right turn at the round about and keep an eye out for the sign.  There's walking tracks and plenty of room to kick a ball, as well as a playground - but no beach.  I stopped in for a quick look.  If I'd had the kids I would've stayed for a muck around, but lone mature woman on the swings is kind've sad, so I left.

Entrance to Shepherds Park, Beach Haven
The journey to Beach Haven was not without purpose.  My father lives at a residential care facility there, and my sister and her family live nearby.  Plus, visiting Beach Haven is a trip down memory lane - it's where we brought our kids up - not on the coastal side of Rangatira Road either.

If you choose to take a detour off the motorway after coming across the Harbour Bridge and head to Beach Haven, you may not be wandering down memory lane, but you will find lots of quiet beach, picnic, fishing and boat spots with the most wonderful views that the locals have at their door step and that most other people never see.

Across the Harbour Bridge to Beach Haven....Was I there?  Yes I was :)

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